A remarkably well-preserved medieval town with a population of over 9,000, Taormina is Sicily’s most famous holiday resort, and one of the few southern wintering-places still to attract numerous visitors, discovered by Europe’s leisure classes who began to winter there at the turn of the century. It has a good winter climate; spring is delightful here, and it is now a popular, crowded summer-holiday place.
It is a small town these days, not at all what it was in Hellenistic and Roman times, and more medieval than anything else in appearance. Its views are glorious, especially those towards Mt Etna. Besides its well-known antique theatre there are many good buildings from the later Middle Ages which are ornamented with lava and various stones of different colours in a peculiarly local manner.
The fantastic growth of hotels (where both the water and electricity supplies have already been seriously overburdened) has eclipsed the once agreeable life led by residents, native and foreign, as too, it has completely made away with the internal charm of this hill-town, once all gardens and lanes and its grand little main street. But honour where honour is due, all this massive urban development was netted down by a mesh of wires, cables, supported by a forest of poles, but now all has gone underground and you can see the view and the sun again.
Two roads lead up to Taormina, both branching off Strada Statale 114. Via Luigi Pirandello, the most picturesque, is also the route of the buses from the railway station Taormina—Giardini. After a long, winding climb past villas, fancy hotels, the Anglican Church of St George’s and the funivia station, Via Pirandello finally gives onto the main street, Corso Umberto. To the right is the SAIS bus stop and the Church of San Pancrazio, built on the site of a temple to Serapidean Zeus, where you can make out the cella foundations. Through the Porta Messina, the main entrance of town, the Corso leads to the central Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, where the outstanding building is the Palazzo Corvaia, once the seat of the Sicilian parliament and today the AAST information office. Built in the 14th century, the palace is typically decorated with black lava and white pumice stone. Behind the Church of Santa Caterina on the same square are a few vestiges of the ancient Odeon. Some imperial Roman Baths have been excavated towards the beginning of Via Teatro Greco, the street to turn up for that same Greek Theatre.
Back on the Corso, in the main shopping area of town, steps descend to the so-called Naumachia (perhaps the ancient cistern) with a barrel-vaulted roof. At the top of the steps in the lively Piazza Nove Aprile is the 17th century Church of San Guiseppe. In the square itself, the Church of Sant’ Agostino built in 1488 has been converted into a library. It is the Belvedere, however, that attracts most attention. Passing beneath the Tone dell’ Orologio (12th century, restored in the 17th) you enter the Borgo Medioevale, the oldest and most charming quarter of Taormina, still retaining an Arabic touch or two.
The Cathedral, on the Piazza del Duomo, is a simple structure from the 13th century, with a later rose window and some fine paintings inside, including a 15th-century triptych by Giuffre. In front of the cathedral is a small fountain (1635) by the Montorsoli school. Below this square, the 16th-century San Domenico Convent, the Nazi headquarters during the war, has been turned into a luxury hotel. At the very end of the Corso Umberto is the Porto del Tocco (1440). Down the steps, just off Piazza Sant’ Antonio, is the Palazzo del Duca di Santo Stefano, one of the last palaces built by the Normans in Sicily, and recently restored; note the elegant windows.
Above the Corso, on Via Dionisio Primo, stands the battlemented tower of the Badia Vecchia (the old convent), with its wide, pointed window. Belonging to the 15th century, this is the loveliest medieval monument in Taormina. Below town, on Via Bagnoli Croce are the beautiful public gardens, with unusual wooden toy palaces scattered throughout. For a superb view of the surrounding region, you can go by foot (Via Circonvallazione to the Mulattiera Castel Taormina) or by car (Via Castelmola) to the Sanctuario Madonna della Rocca and the Castle of Taormina, of little interest in themselves, but commanding unforgettable panoramas. For an even better view, drive or take the bus to the village of Castelmola and its medieval castle. The village is also famous for its almond wine.
The main beach of Taormina, Mazzari, can be reached by the cable-car, or funivia (frequent departures from Via Pirandello all year round). A tourist card may be purchased to make a number of trips at a discount. Mazzaro has every facility, including restaurants, as do other beaches in the area, such as Lido Spisone and Lido Mazzeo and the coves around pretty Isola Bella and Capo Taormina. There are also daily coach excursions to Mt Etna.